Autumn and Winter in the Native Garden
Fall is here and normal gardening tasks are coming to a close, but not in the native garden. This is the time to prepare the plants for the coming rains and cooler weather. So while you are looking at those seed and plant catalogs for next year and dreamily planning for spring, set aside time to spruce up the natives. It is also the best time to plant most native and non-native seeds and plants. The cooler weather and rains give the plants time to establish a healthy and extensive root system in preparation for next summer.
What to do out there? Numerous short, easy tasks can be accomplished starting now and continuing into next year. So, here goes!
Pruning
Many perennials can be pruned at this time to remove dead wood and flower spikes, encourage bushy spring growth, and generally shape the plant or tree. When pruning most natives, prune lightly. No more the 25% of the vegetation or stems should be removed in any one year. Plants that benefit from pruning at this time include Sage, Buckwheat that flower with spikes, Ceanothus, Manzanita, Fremontia, Catalina Cherry (Prunus lyonii), and others. Plants that can be pruned from mid-January on include California Wild Rose, Toyon, Coffeeberry, Island Bush Snapdragon, Purple Nightshade, Monkeyflower, Foothill Penstemon, California Fuchsia, and Island Bush Mallow to name some of the more common natives. When pruning California Wild Rose, cut the dead and undesired canes off at ground level. If you have Yarrow, now is the time to give it the annual haircut. Take your power mower and mow it with a height setting of about 2-1/2 to 3 inches.
DO NOT prune any of the Currant (Ribes) species at this time; many will be starting to bloom. These are best pruned after they have completed their bloom cycle in the spring.
Mulching
I don’t want to sound like a broken record but mulch, mulch, mulch!!! This provides shade for the soil and roots, helps to retain moisture in the soil, and, as it slowly decomposes, provides fertilizer to the plant. Mulch can range from wood chips to compost and should be put around the plant out to the drip line and somewhat beyond. Be generous and apply a 3 to 4 inch thick layer of mulch but DO NOT place the mulch against the crown of the plant. This is where the roots transition to the stem(s). Mulch or compost against the plant crown will cause the rot and death of most native plants since the area will remain too moist and shaded which will result in a perfect breeding ground for fungus and bacteria. It is best to keep the mulch back from this area by 2 to 3 inches.
The best time to mulch is after we have received at least one-half inch of rain. This allows time between now and then to get those compost piles finished and collect wood chips. Eucalyptus chips are fine to use but, if fresh, they should be left in the sun for at least 4 to 6 weeks for the oils to break down and become benign.
Another DO NOT is the use of plain grass clippings for mulching around the plants. Grass clippings will compact down in just a week or so and become hydrophobic; that is, they will repel water. The soil beneath will be as dry as a bone in the middle of the Sahara!!! I have had personal experience with this and wondered why the plants were doing so poorly no matter how much I watered. When I finally removed the clippings, I found the top one-quarter inch of the clippings to be moist and the rest to be compacted and dry.
Composting workshops are being held by ECOSLO at the Cesar Chavez Memorial Native Garden. The up-coming workshops will be posted in the Adobe Press so stay tuned.
Seed Bed Preparation
If you are planning on planting any native plants from seed, this is the time to prepare the seed bed. If you live on the Mesa where the soil is sand, incorporating compost into the soil is a must for the plants to thrive. While quite a chore, the more compost the better; 6 to 8 inches is a good start. Borrow your neighbor’s tiller or call in all those owed favors from your friends and host a digging party. Guaranteed, they will still be your friends. Once the compost is incorporated, water well in the evening so the water can thoroughly soak into the soil. Remove any weeds that sprout by your favorite method. Then sit back until we receive at least three-quarters of an inch of rain before sowing the seeds.
Repotting
For any who grow natives in containers, November is a good time to repot and refresh the soil even if the plants don’t require larger pots. Their roots need a continuing supply of soil with sufficient organic matter. Remove the plant and gently loosen as much of the old soil as possible. Take care not to break the roots. Some roots will get broken in this process but try to minimize the disturbance. Before putting new soil in the pot, mix some bone meal with the new soil at a 6 parts soil to 1 part bone meal ratio. The bone meal will stimulate the plant and provide the necessary nutrients to vigorously grow new roots without excessive vegetative growth.
